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<\/a><\/p>\nPicture taken at Bodegas Monovar with Rafael Paveda (far right)<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n A GREAT TRIP, ENJOYED BY ALL<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Over the years we have found that we learn something new at every Bodega we visit.\u00a0 This trip was no exception and so I have included much of that detail and hope that the readers who just want an overview can skip to the sections that interest them.\u00a0 Thanks.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n BACKGROUND<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n This year\u2019s wine trip is based in the town of Biar in the DO of Alicante which hosts 36 certified bodegas. We were based in the town of Biar and visiting bodegas close by and in the town of Pinoso.\u00a0 \u00a0Biar is located located just 39km from Alicante. In addition to wine the economy is based on manufacturing, particularly dolls and pottery. Like many other Spanish regions, Alicante’s winemaking history stretches back over many centuries.\u00a0 By the 15th century, Alicante’s wines were famous throughout Europe.\u00a0 Many wine historians attribute this fame to Fondill\u00f3n, although most writers of the period referred to wines from this region as “Alicant” rather than “Fondill\u00f3n.”\u00a0 France’s King Louis XIV is said to have refused all wines except those from Alicante when he was on his deathbed.\u00a0 During the 19th and most of the 20th century, Alicante winemakers focused their efforts on producing bulk and table wines. As a result of this the wines did not enjoy a good reputation. However the arrival of modern winemaking techniques and equipment has brought positive change to this DO which it was hoped would be demonstrated on this short trip.<\/span><\/p>\n BODEGAS VOLVER, PINOSO, ALICANTE\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n This bodega has a state of the art installation with panoramic views and an impressive selection of wines. Production is 2 million bottles per year from Pinoso but they are part of a group based in Castilla and La Mancha with total turnover of 10 million bottles per annum.\u00a0 \u00a0Pe\u00f1in scores some of these wines 90+<\/span><\/p>\n This visit was extremely professional, including a video of the background to the Bodega, a visit to the vines and a tasting supported by PowerPoint slides.\u00a0 The old vines were some 14 km away and were picked in small boxes for the top wines.\u00a0 Roses at the end of the rows of vines are used as a early barometer of the effect of any bugs\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n The PowerPoint slides guided us through what we should be doing:<\/span><\/p>\n 1 \u00a0\u00a0The Look<\/strong>: Colour and the Wine \u2018Legs\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n 2.\u00a0 The Smell<\/strong>: Primary, Secondary & Tertiary<\/span><\/p>\n 3.\u00a0 The Taste<\/strong>: Bitter (back of month), Sour, Salt & Sweet (front of the mouth)<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n We compared 2 white wines:<\/span><\/p>\n Then another comparison<\/span><\/p>\n After a paella lunch we all boarded to coach to our second tasting of the day<\/span><\/p>\n FINCA COLLADO\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 This small bodega has achieved some good scores from Pe\u00f1in with its Delit 100% Monastrell scoring 93 points and which we will be tasting. We have experienced in previous wine trips the uniqueness of each bodega and you will find that this one is no exception, producing excellent quality wine in small premises.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n We met up with Maria Carmen, the Sales Manager who advised that the grapes grew at 600m high above sea level where temperatures can range from 45 – 50\u00b0C in the day and drop down to 16 – 18\u00b0C at night.\u00a0The harvest had started the day before we arrived and it seemed to be a family affair including her sons and daughters starting at 06.00 hrs!<\/span><\/p>\n We were shown the 3 areas where they were growing grapes.\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 The owner of the Bodega had originally grown grapes to sell for eating but his inexperience meant that they had been overwatered and therefore the roots had not forced themselves far enough down.\u00a0 These may have to be ripped out and new vines planted.\u00a0 That same owner now listens to the local people on what to do.<\/span><\/p>\n They were also looking to buy grapes from other parcels of land if the quality was right.<\/span><\/p>\n A delivery of grapes arrived whilst we were there and the tasting was done on the Bodega\u2019s open terrace in the shade.\u00a0 \u00a0We tasted:<\/span><\/p>\n 45% Chardonnay with 55% Moscatel \u2013 their wine that wins most prizes.<\/span><\/p>\n \u201cOpen the foil below the rim so it doesn\u2019t drip, smell the wine and then swirl to get the nose\u201d.\u00a0 Good with Italian food, fish, cheese & chocolate<\/span><\/p>\n Merlot 85% and Monastrell 15%.\u00a0 Lively and bright colour. On the nose, the ripe strawberry with notes of jam predominates without being excessively intense.<\/span><\/p>\n Syrah 85% and\u00a0Monastrell 15%.\u00a0 Very attractive colour of great intensity, with violet hues that remain over time. On the nose, this direct Syrah shows mostly a ripe fruit with a slight touch of unroasted coffee.<\/span><\/p>\n Merlot 100% (free-run juice) i.e. Not pressed but fermented totally in the skins, which are moved around during the process.\u00a0 The wine is then separated off for 1 year in the barrel with the residue going into a less quality 2nd<\/sup> wine.\u00a0Cherry hues and the nose is extremely intense, predominantly fine pastry and blackcurrant aromas, with a slight spicy touch.<\/span><\/p>\n Made from 100% Monastrell 70 year-old vines with 12 months in 300 litre barrels & 5-6 years in the cellar.\u00a0 Only 4500 bottles per year and normally only sold to Michelin Star restaurants.<\/span><\/p>\n Its name also gives rise to various interpretations:<\/span> \u201cThe pleasure of farming, the pleasure of winemaking, the pleasure of drinking. Whenever, wherever and whoever you are with.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n THE HOTEL, DRINKS AND THE RESTAURANT\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n After a short journey we arrived at the 4 star Hotel Villa de Biar and our rest period was slightly curtailed as we had spent so much time enjoying the Bodega visits & wine.\u00a0 A welcome reception was provided in the hotel grounds and then a great meal was organised in the local restaurant \u2018El Solet\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n BODEGAS MONOVAR<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n After a trip to a Ceramics factory with a video presentation, we drove to the bodega, part of the MGWines Group which has some innovative concepts that demonstrates how the local Alicante wines have progressed to achieve international recognition\u00a0 \u00a0We were hosted by family member Rafael Poveda who took us to the vineyard and then explained that also have 250 hectares of old olives producing 500,000 bottles a year.\u00a0 They produce 1.5 million bottles of wine a year but Fondill\u00f2n is at the heart of the Bodega.<\/span><\/p>\n Wine Background<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n The harvest was due to start next week with Monastrell being their \u2018Queen of Grapes\u2019 \u2013 the camel of grapes as it survives only with moisture from the morning dew.\u00a0 It has a long harvesting \u2018window\u2019 so they can choose to pick to suit the wine they want \u2013 sometimes in September, older Rafael obviously had a thirst for knowledge about wine as he explained that they harvest by hand for quality although recognise that a machine picks at the rate of 250 people.\u00a0 In the South of England they grow vines on fences to get the sun but in Alicante they grow in bushes to try to give them some shade.\u00a0 In China, where temperatures can get down to -20\u00b0C, they cover the vines in soil to protect them and then uncover them for summer growing.<\/span><\/p>\n They now subcontract the picking & pruning to (Spanish) companies who provide the labour and charge per kilo picked.\u00a0 As these pickers are experts, 20 people can pick 1 hectare in 1 hour.\u00a0 This relieves the Bodega of labour & accommodation responsibility and is better than the 1960\u2019s when they employed gypsies, the 70\u2019s were North Africans, the 80\u2019s people came from Ecuador & Bolivia whilst the 90\u2019s attracted Polish & Romanian pickers.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Rafael explained that they only pick the grapes towards to bottom of the vines as the top ones are dry, acidic and called \u2018Cabroda\u2019 = goat droppings.\u00a0 They allow the local goat shepherd to bring his animals in to clear these, with the \u2018payment\u2019 of a baby goat at Christmas.\u00a0 \u00a0Whilst the roses attract insects and are a good barometer of the state of the vines, Rafael explained that the best pesticide is the sun in June, July & August as it kills off all the bugs.<\/span><\/p>\n The Wine<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Apparently \u2018Wine\u2019 is defined as above 7% alcohol with anything above 15% being defined as \u2018Liquor\u2019.\u00a0 In his Grandfather\u2019s days wine was made naturally.\u00a0 In the 1960\u2019s & 70\u2019s it involved chemicals; in the 70\u2019s to 80\u2019s people experimented with cotton, paper and (yes) asbestos before moving on to natural settlement. Nowadays, people filter using white sand from fossils but Bodegas Monovar has moved to the latest technique of using Porcelain – an Italian concept (designed by the Swiss but manufactured in Italy) of forcing the wine through drilled helical holes in the Porcelain and an automated system that self flushes.\u00a0 He moves this around the 6 Bodegas in the group and the cost paid for itself in the 1st<\/sup> year,<\/span><\/p>\n The Corks & Labels<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.cbws.eu\/archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/2-Biar-Castle-300x224.jpg\")
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<\/a>\u00a0The video explained that the Bodega was the result of 4 generations who still focussed on \u201cCulture, Tradition & Passion\u201d and that some of the vines were now 90 years old.\u00a0 At some 525 meters above seal level, the night & day temperature differential helped create excellent wines, and Monastrell \u201cloves suffering on the rocky, dry & white soil\u201d.\u00a0 \u00a0 Miguel Angel, the Sommelier, explained that they were now harvesting again, having started in early September but had to stop because of the rain.![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.cbws.eu\/archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/4-P1020154-001-Cropped-Miguel-with-vines-300x151.jpg\")
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<\/a>We saw one load of grapes arrive and the machine![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.cbws.eu\/archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/6-P1020164-300x225.jpg\")
<\/a> transferred away the stems (\u201cthe animals love them\u201d) and pumped the juice to the vats after a sample was taken and yeast added.\u00a0<\/span>Yeast dies at 30\u00b0C, and so the juice was kept fermenting for 3 days at 27.2\u00b0C before becoming \u2018Wild Wine\u2019.\u00a0 \u00a0They used only French Oak barrels (\u20ac750 each v \u20ac250 for American Oak) and they didn\u2019t filter their red wines but did filter the white.\u00a0 They keep the barrel room at 80% humidity but still lose 5 \u2013 6% of wine in the process.<\/span><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.cbws.eu\/archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/7-P1020169-300x225.jpg\")
<\/a>Each person had their own tasting place with 5 glasses, tapas and a sheet of paper to record which wine was in each glass.<\/span><\/p>\n\n
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\nDELIT Spanish word for DELIGHT.<\/span><\/p>\n\n
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<\/a>vines mid\/end October but young wines on 1st<\/sup> day of November. As a comparison, Merlot has a 1-week harvesting \u2018window\u2019\u00a0 \u00a0They need to prune every January or the vine will \u2018overgrow\u2019 and die.\u00a0 They also give the tall vines a \u2018haircut\u2019 in June to cut them back from 2m to 1 \u2013 1.5m.\u00a0 They still have some of his Great Grandfather\u2019s vines at over 100 years old.<\/span><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.cbws.eu\/archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/20-P1020234-300x225.jpg\")
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<\/a>Rafael explained the evolution from natural cork, through composite, synthetic and screw cap.\u00a0 They sell to Sainsbury\u2019s, & Tesco\u2019s largely in screw cap as cork costs 10x more.\u00a0 However, they sell to (UK) restaurants with corks because of customer expectations and the ambience it creates.\u00a0 They also sell to Harrods.\u00a0 \u00a0They produce their own labels at the time of bottling (can fill at 1 bottle per second!) to allow flexibility.\u00a0All Bodegas pay a \u2018glass tax\u2019 that funds all the green glass recycling bins we see in the street.\u00a0 This enables new bottles to be produced in an environmentally friendly way.<\/span><\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.cbws.eu\/archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/23-fondillon-50-anos-182x500-1-109x300.jpg\")
<\/a>Fondill\u00f2n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.cbws.eu\/archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/24-P1020249-300x225.jpg\")
<\/a>We were fortunate enough to taste (in the \u201cSacristy\u201d of this bodega) his special Fondill\u00f2n. poured from a barrel that had been started in 1950.\u00a0 Each year they add about 10% of the following year\u2019s production so it blends \u2013 \u201cso it won\u2019t punish the mother\u201d.\u00a0 The taste was like a red desert wine and similar to Port, Sherry and Madeira.\u00a0 It is all natural, not fortified and all Monastrell at 16.5% alcohol.<\/span><\/p>\n