Having read the detailed Wine Trip Team’s carefully mapped out itinerary, it was with great expectation that 38 cheerful members of the CBWS set off on May 4th from Alicante to Santiago de Compostela with a Ryan Air Boeing 737.
The blue and yellow no frills flight was full and Michael O’Leary the Irish businessman can be more than happy with his Spanish internal enterprise. Luckily the plane was slightly delayed so we were not subjected to the Ryan Air Fanfare! The change from 28C on the Costa Blanca to a cool 16C in Galicia was admittedly a slight shock to the system but the group had been forewarned and were adequately equipped with pullovers, jackets and umbrellas!
Upon arrival in Santiago we boarded a coach that would take us the two hour drive south/east to our location for the first three nights at the impressive Parador at Monforte de Lemos located in a valley between the rivers Miño and Sil. The pleasant journey took us through the typical Galician rich, lush green vegetation, attractive rolling hills with steep vineyards and thick verdant forests; truly a stark contrast to the mostly dry arid land that we had left behind that morning on the Costa Blanca.
The Parador situated at the highest point of Monforte de Lemos, enjoys excellent views of the regional capital, and is a collection of buildings consisting of a Keep, a Monastery and the Condes de Lemos Palace. The origin of the San Vicente do Pino Monastery, where the main facilities of the Parador are located dates back to the 9th century. However the current buildings, which replace an earlier construction, were built in the 17th century. Restored beautifully in neoclassical style it is both a comfortable and appealing location perfectly suited to the CBWS group, with an added touch of luxury. Four more CBWS souls who had driven privately joined the happy party that would finally consist of 42 ‘Wine Connoisseurs’.
The evening reception allowed for an immediate taste of some local wines and the efficient and knowledgeable Manager was eager to pour and explain some of the characteristics of the unusual grape varieties (to us) of the Ribeira Sacra such as the Godello white, and the Mencia tinto. The dinner that followed in the Don Pedro restaurant was very wholesome, and we delighted in sampling appetizing Galician cuisine that was typical fare of the area.
The next morning we were taken for our first tasting to The Bodega at Adega Ponte Da Boga scheduled for 10.15am.
The route was on winding secondary roads through tiny villages (one much to our amusement was called Sober) and closer to our destination the approach became narrow and exciting. How the Wine Trip Team ever found some of these isolated vineyards – would be worth exploring! Needless to say we fully appreciated the breath-taking deep green countryside and splendid views of the countless extremely steep hillside vineyards, with occasional glimpses of the colourful winding rivers that gleamed in the morning sunshine.
We were greeted by Marta our guide at the Bodega and she duly proceeded to give us a short tour of the family run winery founded in 1898. Like all wineries in the Ribeira Sacra region the soil is generally rich in minerals, steeply sloping and mostly made up of slate and schist. This forces the vines roots to push deep down in search of water. Marta carefully explained that although during the wet season rain fell heavily it did not damage the vines due to the natural drainage, and in dry times, the eager roots seek out humidity deep down in the soil between the clay and slate. Strong winds can cause damage to the vines and is a constant hazard to the growers. Production at the Bodega is about 300,000 bottles a year and the grape varieties are mainly red Mencia and white Godello. Much smaller sections at Adega Ponte Da Boga are dedicated to Merenzao, Brancellao and Albariño. As in other vineyards in the Ribeira Sacra the grapes are harvested by hand and carried in 18-20 kg baskets to a collection point. It did not take much imagination to realise that it was very hard work undertaken in high temperatures that reach 47C. In some cases a simple rail system has been introduced on the slopes which allow the baskets to be loaded and transported.
Three wines that were tasted were a White Godello/Albariño blend, and two Mencia Tintos of which the Bancales Olvidades Tinto was slightly favoured. CBWS President Tim Fawle had wisely pointed out that apart from the Albariño grape we were not familiar with the grape varieties that we were going to taste on the trip and that we should bear that fact in mind. After the wine tasting Marta suggested that we try their special Orujo – and some gamely did!
The second Bodega visit that day was to Adega Algueira not far away and wonderfully situated in the middle of old chestnut and oak tree forests, nestling on the banks of the Sil River. A family run business started in 1980 by recovering old abandoned vineyards; they are currently working on a project to recover a further 15,000 sq m of abandoned vineyards. Present production relies entirely on grapes from their own vineyards. We were welcomed by Claudia who then introduced Fernando the exuberant owner who turned on a video and in-between the audio visual went on to describe his 35 years of passionate wine making. He told us about the original winemakers the Romans, and touched on the past history which included the decline of the industry in Galicia when large numbers of inhabitants left for the United States to find a better life. There had been an 85% decline in wine production then and it was only in recent times that Galician wine in that region had been worked again.
Fernando a rather handsome Romanesque chap was more than enthusiastic about his wines and Claudia had difficulty keeping up the translation as he spoke a pidgin English rapidly and with flair. He elaborated on the 40,000 bottles produced using mostly small grapes which he insisted were the finest, and remarked that twenty five workers were employed at various times and that the work was frankly hard. At his vineyards plastic crates were used to collect the harvest as that allowed the grapes to breathe. He claimed his distinct wines were to be found in the USA and Australia where they were sold for up to US$ 160!!
The subject of treading the grapes was discussed when the video showed a clip of some attractive girls climbing into a large wooden vat to squeeze the juice from the grapes with their bare feet! We later found out at the Tourist Centre in Monforte that the old method had long been prohibited! Fernando was a complete charmer. Four wines were offered for tasting; two White and two Tintos. The Brancellao Tinto Roble 2013 a rare grape variety priced at €25 was interesting. However it was the Cortazado Blanco 2013 a mixture of Godello/Albariño that members mainly purchased. CBWS members left € 1,500 with the Bodega and Fernando looked pleased.
Lunch was taken at the adjacent O Castelo Restaurant (owned by Fernando). The meal was very well served, and the well balanced starters were a treat for the hungry visitors! The main course tender young Lamb was a revelation; it had been cooked to perfection with a stylish sauce and accompanied by a simple salad. The excellent Red Wine that Fernando came up with was a triumph, although we had not been given the chance to taste previously! Bottles of various flavoured Orujo that were placed on the tables at the end with the coffee no doubt helped the digestion and on the journey back to Monforte – most slipped into a well earned slumber!
Back at the Parador there was time to relax before heading down into town to pay a visit to the Tourist Centre and Wine Museum. A young Spanish woman who had spent 2 years in the UK gave an informative talk about the wine industry in the region. The small compact Museum is housed in an old building that had previously served firstly as a religious abode and subsequently as a private home. She pointed out that the typical steep slopes of the Ribeira Sacra region were not entirely uncommon in the world and that similar terrains can be found in Switzerland, Germany and France. At the conclusion of the engaging visit we were given a taste of the ‘Obama’s Choice’ Tinto. It was a Mencia Peza do Rei from Bodegas Cochin and apparently personally selected by the US President for official functions. Fascinated by the story, and perhaps by the wine itself 72 bottles were bought by our group. At € 6 a bottle it was certainly good value for money and would most likely provide a talking point at some future dinner! The evening was a casual unwinding affair with some staying at the Parador and others walking down hill to a nearby bar to take in the atmosphere of the TV coverage of the Champions League semi final match between Juventus of Turin and Real Madrid.
On day 3 it was another easy 9.30am start on our way to Bodega Rectoral De Amandi also neatly situated in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra. By the time we arrived the rain had thankfully abated and our smiling guide Ana (of French origin) was ready to welcome us and straight away engage us in the details of the winery and of their production. The Winery is named after an ancient parish from the 17th century and was the first establishment under the D.O. of Ribeira Sacra. The Bodega which only harvests the Mencia grape is part of the huge Gallegas Group which has 5 wineries in Galicia and exports all over the world. The group produces a total of 25 million bottles and 30% of the wines are exported to countries such as U.K. and surprisingly for us include Mali and Cameroon!! The head spins!
The tasting consisted of three wines from the Bodegas Group two whites one from the area and an Albariño one from the DO Rias Baixas and finishing up with Rectoral De Amandi Mencia Tinto 2014, which proved to be the favourite as far as purchasing was concerned. All the wines were inexpensive the De Amandi costing only € 3.90 a bottle. Antonio the boss at the Bodega appeared and described the Mencia as principally a ‘woman’s wine’ as it was soft and delicate! Interestingly the Gran Alanis Blanco bottle which was a blend of 85% Treixadura (local grape variety) and 15% Godello featured the face of Lina Caballe an Italian Opera singer who was famous in the 19th century and much loved in Galicia. The visit completed, Ana sincerely thanked us for coming and bringing the good sunshine with us.
The 2nd winery we visited that day Bodegas Regina Viarum is located in the mountainous terrain of the Amandi and our approach gifted us astonishing views of the River Sil. The lovely green hillside reflections in the blue water kept the photographers busy for ages. Our Bodega guide Sonia Lopez greeted us and proceeded to show us around the production and cellar areas explaining in her view the fundamental differences that made the Regina wines so special. The new machine that separated the stems from the grapes used a vibration system – most unusual in Spain. The Blood, Sweat and Tears theme was mentioned time and time again, as the harvesting is understandably terribly difficult and in addition the careful pruning was essential to produce high quality wines. The Bodega was started in 2002 and 300.000 bottles are produced annually – 8,000 white Godello and the rest Mencia Tintos. Five Tintos are made two of which are Joven and they have a small area devoted to ecological wine, where no chemicals are used but it is a complicated endeavour and one suspects – financially not interesting.
Three wines were tasted: a Viarum Tinto 2012, a Viarum Godello Blanco 2014 and finally their most expensive Expresión Tinto Barrica 2011 which was the wine most purchased by CBWS members. Unfortunately Sonia lacked the intense passion of our amigo Fernando and we felt that something was missing from the Regina experience!
Lunch at the Regina Viarum Bodega restaurant was good, rather than exceptional and the Joven Tinto served went down well. Only 5 bottles of their best selling Godello White were left on the premises and they were offered to those drinking only white and our lovely Ladies were given preference.
The rest of the warm evening was free, some with energy took advantage by going into Monforte to shop and others rested or took beverages in the central cloister noted for its spectacular beauty. That evening the other Champions semi final Barcelona vs. Bayern Munich was shown on the TV and it was of course Messi’s magic that changed the course of the match.
Our penultimate day in Galicia was again sunny and we had to accept that we had been lucky given the poor forecast that had been shown by the meteorologists. Our calm bus driver Fernando showed great skills in manoeuvring around the twisting curves on the very narrow road to the final Bodega we would call on Adega Abadia Da Cova (Moure). Some passengers did not feel that he would actually ease through some parts and he was duly applauded when he successfully completed his task. 
The Bodega set in the spectacular surroundings of the Cabo do Mundo (End of the World) had been built in 1958 and in 1996 was the first Bodega in the region to produce Albariño. The vineyards are hundreds of years old and descend down to the banks of the meandering River Miño. Present production concentrates on Godello White and Mencia Tinto. The cellar was particularly inviting with the French and American oak barrels standing out against a background of colourfully painted tiles showing Wine Themes and the names of many countries that buy Abadia da Cova wines.
Our bodega guide, Pilar pointed out that it was the Roman Legions 2,000 years ago that had found this unique ‘Terroir’ that was perfect for producing wine and enjoyed by the emperors of Imperial Rome. Several hundred years later, the drastic change in medieval monasteries and the pilgrims spreading news about the Way of St, James combined to establish the excellent reputation of wines and liquors of La Ribeira Sacra.
The Trophy Room was an impressive display of 120 prizes and certificates presented to the Abadia da Cova Winery over many years. In the small tasting room Evaristo the owner appeared and keenly poured the wines, insisting that most should be consumed as soon as possible. This inevitably brought a smile to the faces of CBWS members attentively paying attention to the fine advice! Four wines were sampled a White and three Tintos of which the Albariño Blanco 2014 was considered good quality, fair value and worth purchasing.
Thereafter we were on the road to Santiago de Compostela to spend the final night in north-western Spain right in the centre at the Hotel Monumento San Francisco a mere 150 m from the Cathedral. The San Francisco has been intelligently refurbished internally in a modern style that blends harmoniously with the architecture of the XVIII century. We were more than delighted with our accommodation and some commented that San Francisco was actually better than the Parador where dignitaries are expected to lodge! There was plenty of time to explore Santiago’s classical buildings and breathe in the atmosphere of this famous destination that brings millions of pilgrims annually, most taking the Camino de Santiago to reach their spiritual objective. A train/trolley choo choo ride later that afternoon provided excellent glimpses of the city and was an ideal way of discovering parts that would normally be hidden from tourists.
At the evening Reception Vice-President John Sloggie stood up on behalf of those present and heartily congratulated and warmly thanked the Wine Trip Team of Margaret/Gaby Ferenczy and Sandy/Tim Fawle for their time and effort spent in researching and planning such a memorable Wine Tasting voyage to Galicia. John added that it had been so sad that Margaret and Gaby had not been able to take part but their vast contribution in the enterprise was highly appreciated. Tim and Sandy were duly gifted with some fine wine and advised to consume as soon as possible and given wine and gifts to take back for Margaret and Gaby.
The evening dinner at San Francisco was meritorious, and accompanied this time by a strong Rioja Tinto that especially went favourably with the young lamb. Everyone was in good spirits and previous President and former organiser of many CBWS trips Tim Ladd saluted the brilliant Wine Trip Team wishing them well in the future.
The final morning was free for sightseeing and most members took advantage of the couple of hours at their disposal, before boarding the bus that would take us to the airport. The Ryan Air flight back to Alicante landed on time and on this occasion we were unfortunately heralded with the annoying Ryan Air Fanfare. However nothing could really spoil our satisfied, content mood after such a magnificent and remarkable wine tasting trip to Galicia. Salud Amigos! 
Text and Photos by James Blackwell-Landis May 2015